Xàtiva
Dramatic hilltop castle, Borgia family history, and one of Spain's most beautiful small towns
Last updated: 2026-06-20
Xàtiva (pronounced 'SHA-tee-va') is arguably the most spectacular day trip from Valencia. This ancient city, birthplace of two Borgia popes and once the second city of the Kingdom of Valencia, is crowned by a jaw-dropping castle that stretches along an entire mountain ridge — one of the most dramatic fortifications in Spain.
The castle alone would justify the trip, but Xàtiva's old town is equally rewarding. The Colegiata basilica, the narrow streets climbing towards the castle, the Almudín (medieval grain exchange) housing a museum, and the famous upside-down portrait of Philip V in the town museum — hung inverted as revenge for his burning of the city in 1707 and never righted since.
Xàtiva sits in a fertile valley surrounded by mountains, orange groves, and rice paddies. The town has excellent restaurants serving local cuisine (the arnadí dessert is unique to the area), and the pace of life is wonderfully slow. The Cercanías train from Valencia takes about an hour and costs under €6 return.
Things to See & Do
Xàtiva Castle
One of Spain's most spectacular castles — actually two linked fortifications (Castell Menor and Castell Major) stretching along a dramatic rocky ridge. Views from the walls encompass the entire Valencian plain from the mountains to the sea. Hannibal reportedly passed through, and the Borgias were born in its shadow.
💡 The castle is a 30-minute steep uphill walk from the old town, or take the tourist road train (€3 return). Go early morning in summer — there's limited shade. Bring water.
The Upside-Down Portrait
In the Museo de Bellas Artes, a portrait of King Philip V hangs deliberately upside down — Xàtiva's centuries-long protest against his order to burn the city during the War of Spanish Succession in 1707. The museum has refused to right it ever since. It's petty, magnificent, and very Spanish.
💡 The museum is in the Almudín (medieval grain exchange). The building itself is beautiful. Ask the staff about the portrait — they love telling the story.
Colegiata Basílica
A massive Renaissance basilica that was never finished — the planned nave was to be the largest in Spain. What exists is still imposing: a beautiful apse, carved stonework, and a serene interior. The views from the square outside are lovely.
💡 Free entry. The basilica is on the walking route from town to castle — perfect for a rest stop on the way up.
Old Town & Fountains
Xàtiva is famous for its 25 historic fountains scattered through the old town. The main street (Calle Montcada) is lined with noble houses, and the climb towards the castle passes through increasingly atmospheric medieval streets.
💡 Pick up a fountain walking route map from the tourist office. The Fuente de los 25 Caños (25 Spouts Fountain) at the town entrance is the most photogenic.
Getting There
The Cercanías train runs hourly from Valencia Nord. Easy, comfortable, and scenic.
Cercanías C-2 from Valencia Nord to Xàtiva. Scenic ride through orange groves and rice paddies.
A-7 motorway south, then CV-40 to Xàtiva. Easy drive.
Best Time to Visit
Spring and autumn are ideal. Summer is very hot — the castle climb in full sun is gruelling after 11am.
spring
Perfect — wildflowers on the castle hill, comfortable climbing temperatures, orange blossoms in the valley.
summer
Brutally hot (38°C+). The castle climb is exposed. Go at 9am opening or don't go. The tourist train helps.
autumn
Excellent — golden light, comfortable temperatures, harvest season in the surrounding fields.
winter
Mild (8-15°C). Clear views from the castle. The town is quiet and atmospheric. Some restaurants close Monday.
Accessibility
The castle is not accessible — steep climb with uneven terrain. The old town is partially accessible on main streets. The tourist road train makes the castle approachable for those with limited mobility.
♿ The castle is not wheelchair accessible. The flat parts of the old town (Calle Montcada, Plaça del Mercat) are manageable. The tourist road train reaches the castle car park — from there, the castle grounds are rough.
👶 The old town is fine with a compact stroller. Don't attempt the castle walk with a pushchair — it's too steep and rough. The tourist train is the alternative.
🚇 Xàtiva train station has step-free access. The walk to the old town is flat (10 minutes).
What to Bring
✅ Bring
- Water (1L minimum per person)
- Comfortable shoes with grip
- Sun protection in summer
- Camera
❌ Don't Bring
- Heels or flip-flops (the castle path is rough)
- Heavy bags
🏷️ Rent Instead
- Compact stroller (only useful in the flat old town, not the castle)
Where to Eat & Drink
Xàtiva's food scene is excellent and affordable. The local specialities are distinctive and not easily found in Valencia city.
Casa La Abuela
€€💡 The most popular restaurant in Xàtiva. Outstanding arròs al forn and local specialities. Book ahead for weekend lunch.
👶 Family-friendlyHostal Murta
€€💡 A classic with a beautiful garden terrace. The menú del día is excellent value. Try the arnadí dessert.
👶 Family-friendly🍷 Local tip: Arnadí — a unique Xàtiva dessert made from pumpkin, almonds, sugar, and egg. Found almost nowhere else. Also try the coca de llanda (simple sponge cake) that every bakery makes.
Visiting Xàtiva
Start early (especially in summer), see the castle, then descend through the old town for lunch. The tourist road train saves energy for the castle itself.
- •Take the tourist road train (trenecito) up, walk down through the old town. Saves energy for exploring the castle itself.
- •The castle has two sections — Castell Menor (ruined, atmospheric) and Castell Major (restored, museum). Both are worth exploring.
- •Descend through the old town streets (not the road). Stop at the Colegiata and museum on the way down.
- •Lunch at Casa La Abuela or Hostal Murta. Order arnadí dessert — you won't find it anywhere else.
Tips by Traveller Type
families
- •Kids love the castle — it's massive, explorable, and feels like a real adventure. The views keep them engaged.
- •The tourist train up is fun for children and saves the climb for exploring the castle itself.
- •Pack a picnic — the castle grounds have spots with views where you can eat.
couples
- •One of the most romantic day trips from Valencia. The castle views are breathtaking, the old town is atmospheric.
- •Lunch at Hostal Murta's garden terrace is a highlight. Book ahead on weekends.
- •The walk down from the castle through the medieval streets at golden hour is magical.
Practical Tips
- 1Castle entry is €6 adults, free under 12. The tourist road train is €3 return (runs from near the tourist office).
- 2The castle is open 10am-6pm (winter) / 10am-7pm (summer). Closed Mondays.
- 3Bring at least 1L of water per person. There's a small café at the castle with drinks and snacks.
- 4The walk from train station to old town is flat (10 min). From old town to castle is 30 min uphill.
- 5Ask the museum staff about the upside-down portrait — they take genuine pride in telling the story.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I get to Xàtiva from Valencia?
Take the Cercanías C-2 train from Valencia Nord station. It runs hourly, takes about 1 hour, and costs ~€5.50 return. The scenic ride passes through orange groves and rice paddies.
Is Xàtiva Castle worth visiting?
Absolutely — it's one of Spain's most dramatic castles. The twin fortifications stretch along an entire mountain ridge with 360° views from mountains to sea. Combined with the charming old town and Borgia history, it's the best full-day trip from Valencia.
What is the upside-down portrait in Xàtiva?
A portrait of King Philip V in the town museum, hung deliberately upside down since the 18th century. It's Xàtiva's protest against his order to burn the city in 1707 during the War of Spanish Succession. The museum has never righted it.